What A Dermatologist Wants You to Know About Bemotrizinol, the New Sunscreen Ingredient

1. Learn About the Ingredients in Your Sunscreen 

There are two main types of sunscreen: chemical and mineral. “Chemical sunscreens act like a sponge and absorb sunlight,” Dr. Lipner says. They can include common active ingredients like avobenzone, homosalate, and oxybenzone. And for the first time in 20 years, the Food and Drug Administration has added a new ingredient, bemotrizinol, to its list of approved over-the-counter sunscreen actives, which protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Already sold in Europe, bemotrizinol will be available in the U.S. after the order takes effect in August. 

“Bemotrizinol is an important sunscreen advance,” Dr. Lipner says. “It provides broad-spectrum coverage while functioning effectively during prolonged sun exposure. Another advantage is that it largely remains on the skin’s surface, with only minimal systemic absorption.”

Mineral sunscreens work differently than chemical sunscreens: Typically containing the active ingredients zinc oxide and/or titanium oxide, they work by blocking the sun’s rays like a shield, Dr. Lipner says. “They provide broad-spectrum UV protection and are an excellent option for people with sensitive skin, rosacea, eczema, and also for children.”

Many mineral sunscreens can leave a visible white cast, particularly on darker skin tones, which may make people less likely to use them consistently, Dr. Lipner says. “Tinted mineral sunscreens can help address this concern.”

While the FDA has shared that it is more closely examining select chemical sunscreen ingredients, both types of formulas are effective and available for safe use. “Some chemical sunscreens’ ingredients are being further studied for how they get absorbed in the skin,” Dr. Lipner says. “If you have concerns, then the mineral sunscreens are the way to go.”

When shopping for either type, look for ones labeled as “water resistant,” and as having “broad spectrum protection,” which will safeguard against ultraviolet A and ultraviolet B rays. “An SPF 30 will protect you from 97% of the sun’s rays,” Dr. Lipner says. A higher number, like 70, or even 100, offers only a minimal improvement in protection. 

2. Apply More Than You Think You Need

“People usually put on about 10% to 25% of the sunscreen that they need,” Dr. Lipner says. “In general, you should be applying a shot glass to cover your entire body.” And reapply every two hours, especially if you’ve been sweating or swimming. 

In addition to sunscreen, Dr. Lipner suggests wearing sunglasses and protective clothing if you’re outdoors. If you don’t have Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) clothing, opt for pieces with a thicker weave that block out rays.

3. Wear Sunscreen, Even When It’s Cloudy

A burn is not the only kind of skin damage that can be caused by the sun, Dr. Lipner says. “Long-term sun exposure increases your risk of basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma, and melanoma,” she says.

It also prompts sunspots and visible signs of skin aging. “Ultraviolet (UV) rays can break down the elastic fibers and the firming collagen proteins in our skin, causing wrinkles,” Dr. Lipner says. “They can also stimulate some of the pigment-producing cells called melanocytes, and cause what we know as liver spots, or solar lentigines.” 

In particular, ultraviolet A rays can penetrate deep into the skin and damage DNA through oxidative stress, contributing to wrinkles, sunspots, and the development of skin cancer over time, she says. 

Ultraviolet rays can reach the skin even on overcast days, so no matter the weather apply sunscreen in the morning over any exposed areas.

4. Treat a Sunburn

When you notice a sunburn setting in, get into the shade immediately. “Taking a cool shower can also help,” Dr. Lipner says. 

You can cover burned areas with a cool compress, then follow with an application of thick moisturizer. “Aloe on the skin can be very soothing,” Dr. Lipner says. “And you may also want to take a little acetaminophen or ibuprofen to reduce inflammation.” These measures can help heal more quickly and rehydrate the skin. 

5. Don’t Use Vitamin D as an Excuse to Sunbathe

“For many years people believed that they needed to go out in the sun to get their required vitamin D,” says Dr. Lipner, “but that’s a myth.” If you’re deficient in vitamin D, you can increase your intake through diet. “Vitamin D is in a lot of dairy products,” Dr. Lipner says. Try incorporating eggs, milk, yogurt, and fish like salmon into your diet.

There are also over-the-counter supplements that can boost your vitamin D levels, which you can take after discussing with your doctor.

6. Look Out for Changes in Your Skin

It’s important to see a board-certified dermatologist for a thorough skin exam once a year – more often if you have a history of skin cancer. And once a month, do your own examination at home. Check for abnormalities, and note any textural changes, like scaliness, bumps, or rough, uneven areas. You also want to watch for visible changes to your skin, especially around moles. “Sun exposure can cause moles to change in appearance, and that could be a sign of melanoma, which is the deadliest form of skin cancer,” Dr. Lipner says.

When examining your skin, remember the letters A, B, C, D, and E:

• A stands for asymmetry. “If you were to put a line through a mole, both sides should look the same; if they don’t, that’s a warning sign,” Dr. Lipner says.  
• B stands for border, and the borders of your moles should be round and smooth; if they’re ragged or irregular, reach out to your doctor for a checkup. 
• C stands for color. “Moles with multiple colors or shades of brown or black may be a warning sign of melanoma.” 
• D is for diameter; a mole that’s bigger than a pencil eraser could be cause for concern, Dr. Lipner says.
• E is most important; it stands for evolving. Says Dr. Lipner, “If you have a mole that is changing, or getting bigger, show it to a board-certified dermatologist.”

This mnemonic device applies to melanomas, Dr. Lipner says, but other types of skin cancer can have a different appearance. “The most common type is basal cell carcinoma, or basal cell cancer, and those tend not to be colored. Generally, basal cells can be a red scaly patch, or a little pink bump.” Less common than a basal cell cancer, but more common than melanoma, is a squamous cell carcinoma, and it can appear as a thickened area of skin.