Peptides and Skin Care: Benefits, Risks and What a Dermatologist Want You to Know
What are peptides in skin care, and do they really work? A dermatologist explains the potential benefits of peptides for aging skin, the risks to know, and how to decide whether they're worth adding to your skin care routine.
From their popularity in the form of GLP-1s to influencers touting their supposed health benefits, peptides seem to be everywhere lately. They’ve even become known as one of the trendiest ingredients in skin care, showing up in serums, moisturizers and eye creams promising smoother, firmer skin.
Although their inclusion in skin care products isn’t new, interest has also surged in peptides’ so-called anti-aging properties for skin. “The trend right now is skin longevity, and that’s why peptides have become huge within the last two years,” says Dr. Alison Dempsey, a dermatologist at NewYork-Presbyterian/Weill Cornell Medical Center. “I would say that topical peptides are safe, and they have proved to be effective. I am starting to incorporate them more into my patients’ skin care regimens.”
Health Matters spoke to Dr. Dempsey about different types of peptides, how they are regulated and whether it’s worth including them in your skin care routine.
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What are peptides, and why are they added to some skin care products?
Dr. Dempsey: A peptide is a small chain of amino acids that the body makes naturally. They act as messengers, signaling the cells to carry out different functions in the body. We know there are hundreds of peptides that affect the skin — some can help stimulate collagen, improve elasticity or firm skin.
Are skin products with peptides regulated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA)?
Dr. Dempsey: Peptide skin care products are regulated as cosmetics, not drugs, so they typically do not undergo FDA approval.
Any peptide that is injected, inhaled or taken in an oral form is going to be regulated by the FDA. I always tell my patients if they are considering injecting peptides, proceed with extreme caution if the product lacks FDA approval.
So are peptides safe for skin care? Are there any risks of using them?
Dr. Dempsey: Topical peptides are generally very safe. Because they’re applied to the surface of the skin, not a lot of the peptide is being absorbed. I haven't come across any serious risks. The main risk would be skin irritation or a rash based on how a person reacts to the ingredients.
Why are peptides so popular in skin care products now?
Dr. Dempsey: Number one, it’s all over social media. Also, when it comes to skin care for anti-aging, we know what works, and that is a retinoid. Retinoids stimulate collagen production. We've been using retinoids for years and years, and we have plenty of research to back that up. Now peptides are coming in as the little sister to retinoids, and I think they have a lot of promise.
So peptides can help reduce wrinkles and signs of aging?
Dr. Dempsey: We still need some more literature to support this, but there have been some randomized controlled trials that show people are seeing greater elasticity of the skin, less wrinkling.
Consistency is key. Similar to retinoids, the cumulative effect of peptides is much better and more pronounced. So the more you use a retinoid or peptide, the better the results are.
Can peptides treat eczema, rashes or help with wound healing?
Dr. Dempsey: I’m a little bit wary about this, because with any type of compromised skin, you want to be super gentle with skin care. I feel more comfortable recommending peptides for anti-aging rather than improving the skin barrier.
Do peptides help treat acne?
Dr. Dempsey: No. Peptides do not have any anti-inflammatory properties, so they wouldn't be a good option for acne.
Should I add peptides to my skin care routine?
Dr. Dempsey: I would mostly recommend peptides for people who are specifically looking for anti-aging — so for those in their 30s and up. And always ask your dermatologist for their recommendation. I probably get 10 skin care regimens a day from patients. I go through the products, look at the ingredients, and make sure that they are: number one, safe, and number two, appropriate for the patient’s skin goals.
4 Types of Peptides in Skin Care
While research is limited, scientists have identified four types of peptides that are effective for skin care. “They each work differently in the body, which means peptides are more versatile than retinoids,” says Dr. Dempsey. “I always recommend the ones that have the most literature to support them.”
- Signal peptides act like messengers, signaling skin cells to produce collagen which helps keep skin firm.
- Carrier peptides deliver trace amounts of minerals (such as copper and magnesium) to support skin health; there is evidence that copper peptides may be effective as an anti-wrinkle ingredient.
- Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides are designed to interfere with signaling involved in facial-muscle contractions, potentially helping soften expression lines; some have been studied as topical alternatives to botulinum toxin.
- Enzyme-inhibiting peptides slow enzymes that breakdown collagen and elastin; this category of peptides has the least amount of research.
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